Yesterday started as a most beautiful morning: absolutely gorgeous autumn weather with stunningly blue skies that made me incredibly happy to be alive: I was back in Tibet, and I felt welcomed. I am happy here.
Our small group of nine walked around the Jokhang in the heart of Lhasa; it is the most sacred of Tibetan Buddhist temples. From the roof, we could see the Potala Palace some miles away, bathed in a shaft of light through the puffs of clouds as though to direct our attention there.
I wanted to find the wonderful jewelry shop where I bought a number of things last year. Carole from Pennsylvania (my traveling companion from last year's tour), Joann and I finally found it and spent a fair amount of money there, but as we stepped out the door, a Tibetan woman street vendor tried to sell us cheap necklaces.
Joann made the mistake of asking how much, just for inquiry, which the woman took as an interest to buy: "150 yuan!" Joann kept walking after me, and I heard the woman calling out progressively lower prices with an equally rising voice. Joann kept saying no, even at 40 yuan. I had crossed the street by this time time, but heard the woman following us and finally yelling with complete contempt: "Fuckkkkk you! You bitch! You whore! " There was a gap in the epithets, and then she launched the most damning insult: "You Chinese!"
I could walk away from all the rest, but I could not let this comment be my lasting memory of Lhasa. Although I had had nothing to do with the incident, I walked back to the woman, put 20 yuan, about $3, in her hand, said "We are not Chinese" and went back in my original direction. She caught up to me and held out an imitation turquoise and coral bracelet. "Gift" she said, "gift from me. I'm sorry."
I have been thinking about this woman: It was about 6:20 in the evening when the incident happened. I'm sure she was tired from standing all day and trying to hustle tourists with cheap jewelry amongst the competition. We obviously were the last straw and she lost it: "You Chinese!"
I realize that I will be able to go home to my nice life, but she will continue to be a second-class citizen in her own country.
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2 comments:
Wow...The ultimate insult for her was to label someone "Chinese." We have no idea how it is to live in an occupied country.
I can't begin to tell you how sad it is to see. We have a political science professor on our tour who was extremely shocked but understanding of the comment (he has traveled extensively through China), and Jeff, our tour guide, said she could have received severe punishment if she had been heard by the wrong people.
All I can do is think of the Tibetans' hope (via His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama) that time will moderate the Chinese government's stance on Tibetan autonomy. Now THAT'S Buddhist tolerance!
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